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Sterling Athletes Team
Malin Holmberg
Athlete Bio
It's strange that something can be so enyojable as climbing, I mean it feels like I can't get enough. Spending hours and hours on and around the rock and still I very seldom get bored. Is it all the good freinds, being out in the nature, the good feeling of moving upwards the fresh air...that makes it so good.
Last spring she spent a lot of time climbing various areas of Spain. She felt she was in optimum shape and had really good flow. She had a long term goal to do an 8a on-sight. She put that goal into action in Margalef where she spied a route that looked amazing and got it on the first go. Hopefully this summer season will bring the same strength and goal setting.
Tick List – Most Proud of Achievements: Where: Date: Electric Avenue, 8a (very beautiful line and hard for the grade) Bohuslän, Sweden july 2008 Piez pour nous 8a+ os Gorges du Tarn, France april 2008 Rätt Lätt 8a, rp (traditional) Bohuslän, Sweden sept 2008 Sativa Patatica, 8a onsight, Margalef, Spain oct 2008 8b Jesus Christ Superstar Sweden Den gamle och havet, 7B+ (boulder), beautiful problem! Sweden My climbing plan is to train and climb as much as possible during the summer to be in good shape this autumn when I've planned to go for a longer trips How did you get started climbing? I started climbing after a "try climbing" event (indoors) in my hometown.
How old were you when you started? I climb the first time in school but I started training climbing when I was 21 years old.
Who or what inspired you to start climbing? An article about climbing in a magazine , I was so inspired and wanted to start climb immediately!
Who served as your inspiration in life? All my friends, climbing, the nature, the sun...
What was your first outdoor climb? I climbed outdoors my first time in the old mine in my hometown Kiruna, a really cold and unfriendly place...
Any training advice or suggestions? Keep in mind the reason why you are training!
If you could have 1 superpower what would it be? That would be a super powerful mind :-)
If you could have 3 wishes, what would they be? (no wishing for more wishes)
· more fantastic climbing days each year
· protection against injurys and diseases
· lots of damn good coffee for the rest of my life
What was your favorite childhood cartoon? I can't remember that a had one
Shameless self-promotion - my climbing log-book at 8a.nu In the lastest issue of the Swedish climbing magazine "Bergsport", In an article about bouldring in a Swedish magazine called "Figher magazine) (aug-09), 8a yearbook for 2008.
Other climbing highlights:
1. In 2008 I won the national champinship in both lead- and bouldering
2. Winner of national champinship in leadclimbing 2007 and 2006
3. Winner of the swedish bouldercup (total) 2008
4. Several #1 in the bouldercup in 2006-2008
GOALS:
Take good care of the enjoy of climbing and my motivation to climb and always try to train in a way that keeps up the progress of my climbing skills and that prevent injurys. In numbers: Do more 8a and 8a+ onsight, at least do 8b+ redpoint sometime in my climbing career.
LONG TERM PERSONAL GOALS:
Keep up the enjoy and enthusiasm in the things I do both in climbing and "the other life" besides the climbing.
Favorite Climbing Areas:
To mention some of my favorites (I still have many to discover)
· Bohuslän and Kjugekull in Sweden
· Céüse, Gorge du Tarn, Buoux and La Balme in France
· Lofoten and Kvalöya in Norway
· Rodellar, Terradets and Margalef in Spain
Best day of climbing: there is lots of best climbing days and to describe it shortly it includes; good routes with lots of nice and challenging moves (and the feeling of harmony and power in the body), sun, nice environment and in company of my best friends
Your favorite climb:
· Almost all the routes in Terradets
· "Electric Avenue", "Crack-o-holic" and "Rätt Lätt" all three in Bohuslän, Sweden
· "San John pecos", "Les colonettes", "Vagabond" very nice routes in Ceuse
· Stetind, a multipitch climb in the north part of Norway. Beautiful mountain!
· The long and nice routes in Hylteberget and it's so near my home. A very good afterwork climbing spot.
List at least 5 reasons why you like Sterling Rope
1: Light
2: Easy to use (runs easily in the belay device)
3: Longlasting
4: Safe
5: perfect dynamic
The last book you read? Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts, very good! Almost 1000 pages but you want get bored; I got completely absorbed by the story!
Your favorite book/story? Thuesdays with Morrie by Mitch Albom and Siddharta by Herman Hesse
Your favorite bands? Vary a lot
List 5 favorite movies? Cidade de Deus (Fernando Meirelles och Kátia Lund), Mar adentro( Alejandro Amenábar), Last king of Scotland (Kevin MacDonald),
Your favorite types of music? I listen to almost all kind of music
Other sports/activities you like to do? (other than climb) running, skiing
Your favorite beverages? Coffee
One favorite personal quote? Mayby "Sleep is a poor substitute for coffee"
What do you want to do in the next 5 years? Climb as much as possible and visit many new climbing places
Where do you want to be 5 years from now? Never far away from good routes or a espresso machine
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